Mġarr ix-Xini combines sheltered water, a watchtower and rugged slopes. It is Gozo beyond the postcard bus route.
Check swimming conditions and access; the road to the bay is narrow and not suited to improvised parking.
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A fisherman at the canyon floor serves the day's catch on a chalk blackboard. Explorer Vladislav swears the fish was still blinking.
Angelina Jolie's film "By the Sea" (2015) with Brad Pitt was largely shot on Gozo. Mgarr Harbour, Xlendi and Gozitan landscapes stood in for the French Riviera of the 1970s.
The tower guards the entrance to one of Gozo's most sheltered bays and shows how coastal defence worked with the landscape.